The story of Cellars at Jasper Hill Farm and Cabot Clothbound Cheddar is the result of a perfect storm between two ambitious brothers, Cabot Creamery, and an award-winning wheel of cheese. Brothers Andy and Mateo Kehler decided to start a business in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom because their family had ties to the land there for over 100 years, summering at nearby Caspian Lake. They wanted to create a sustainable agricultural business that would revive the working landscape of Vermont, which was being decimated by big dairy farms and industrial agriculture. They bought ‘the old Jasper Hill Farm’ in 1998, and worked for five years to restore the barn, start a herd of Ayrshire dairy cows, and build a creamery. They began making cheese in 2003 and instantly met with much acclaim, but it was a call from Cabot Creamery that would change everything.
Photo credit: Sarah Forest
Cabot Creamery heard of Jasper Hill’s success in the artisan cheese world – a world that they wanted to get into, but were having trouble reaching due to the fact that none of their cheese aging facilities had the capacity to age a British-style bandaged cheddar that they longed to make. Cabot Creamery is one of America’s most venerable dairy institutions. Begun by 94 Vermont farmers in 1919 who each contributed $5 per cow plus a cord of firewood for the boiler, they purchased the village creamery and began turning their excess milk into butter and fluid milk that could be shipped to urban centers. Over the years, the cooperative evolved, and they added cheese to their repertoire. Cabot Creamery is not a ‘fancy’ cheese manufacturer, but extremely pragmatic and effective in it’s business initiatives – to this day they support over 1,200 farm families throughout New England. They shipped a few test wheels to Jasper Hill Farm, and the Kehler brothers aged them for over a year before sending an entry to the American Cheese Society competition. Cabot Clothbound Cheddar won ‘Best in Show’ that year, and the Kehlers returned to the farm determined to find a way to expand the production of this newly crowned wunder-cheese.
The idea they hit upon was the Cellars at Jasper Hill Farm – a 22,000 square foot aging facility with seven different temperature and humidity controlled vaults dug into the hillside next to the creamery and farm. By building the Cellars, they could age and sell infinitely more Cabot Clothbound Cheddar AND allow new artisan cheesemakers to get into the game by aging cheese for them as well. More than 70% of the labor in making cheese goes into the aging of it, and by easing that burden for cheesemakers, they allowed their partner creameries to focus on what matters most – animal health, quality milk, and great cheesemaking techniques. In addition to aging cheeses from Jasper Hill Farm and Cabot Creamery, the Cellars now ages cheese from four other creameries. But according to the folks at The Cellars at Jasper Hill Farm – Cabot Clothbound Cheddar is what keeps the lights on – the company remains a powerful economic engine for cheese, dairy, and Vermont’s working landscape.
By buying and serving Cabot Clothbound Cheddar, you are supporting this virtuous cycle, and eating some pretty incredible cheese.
Pickle Day THIS SUNDAY September 25th!
It’s Kind of a Big Dill….
Join Saxelby Cheesemongers this Sunday from 12-5pm for Pickle Day, the the biggest and pickley-est party on the Lower East Side! Come on out to Orchard Street to sample our world-famous Raclette and Pickle Dog, taste treats from over 20 picklers, get down to some great live music, and witness the first EVER home pickling / dancing contest!