The Saxelby Exclusives Trio: cheesey collaborations with farmers, chefs and brewers

SaxExclusives

A trio of cheeses made exclusively for Saxelby Cheesemongers in collaboration with some of our favorite cheesemakers, restaurant / chef partners, and brewers! This limited-edition roundup showcases the best of the best – rare, seasonal, and delicious cheeses, each with their own story to tell.

bone_char_peal_580xBone Char Pearl

Bone Char Pearl is a mixed milk cheese (fifty percent cow and fifty percent goat) that is made at by Barbara Brooks at Seal Cove Farm in Maine. The young buttons of cheese are dusted with a fine coating of bone ash produced by Blue Hill at Stone Barns, and aged by the expert affineurs at Crown Finish Caves until they reach three weeks of age and are ripe and ready to eat! Bone Char Pearl is tangy, fudgy and distinctly earthy with a tannic and mineral finish imparted by the bone ash.

20170725_saxelcheese_101_lg_580xCalderwood

Calderwood is a rich and robust wheel of raw cows’ milk cheese coated in finely chopped fibers of hay made exclusively for Saxelby Cheesemongers by Jasper Hill Farm. The wheels are washed with brine for six months in the Cellars at Jasper Hill before being coated in hay and sealed in Cryovac. After an additional four months of aging in hay, the cryovac is removed and the cheeses are left to dry and form a natural rind in the cellars. The finished wheels of cheese are firm nutty and complex, with hints of earth, caramel, chestnut honey, toasted bread, and tropical fruit.

folksbier_willoughby_square_580xFolksbier

A pungent, limited edition collaboration between Saxelby Cheesemongers, Jasper Hill Farm, and Folksbier Brauerei! Willoughby is an odoriferous round of washed rind cows’ milk cheese that is normally washed with a salt brine. However, this special batch has been washed with Folksbier’s ‘Recurring Dreams’, an American pale ale with a citrusy, herbal kick. Recurring Dreams is a continuing series at Folksbier that explores the NE-style pale ale through modifying variables batch to batch, a repeated process with subtle yet distinguishable changes.

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A Match Made in Beer and Cheese Heaven: Folksbier Washed Willoughby!!

FolskbierA Saxelby exclusive and a Brooklyn Original!! Being obsessive nerds for all things fermented, we at Saxelby felt driven to unite the worlds of beer and cheese just in time for holiday season feasting.

We’ve collaborated with our friends at Jasper Hill Farm to custom wash an entire batch of Willoughby (that’s 1000 wheels!!!) in a beer of our choosing. After some arduous searching, we found the perfect brew for the task: Recurring Dreams IPA from our Red Hook neighbor Folksbier.

After a few weeks bathing in this juicy, floral and hop-bomb of an ale, these Willoughbys are pungent, full-flavored and entirely one-of-a-kind!

Read more about Folksbier, recently named NYC’s best taproom by Grubstreet!

Brooklyn’s Finest: Salvatore Bklyn Ricotta Available Only At saxelbycheese.com!!

Salvatore

Saxelby Cheesemongers is proud to debut Salvatore Bklyn Ricotta, for sale online only at saxelbycheese.com!! This luscious, dense and rich ricotta is made fresh to order every day just a block away from our headquarters in Red Hook, Brooklyn!

Salvatore Bklyn began as a labor of love after Betsy Devine and Rachel Marks encountered the ricotta of one Tuscan elder gent called Salvatore whilst traveling in Tuscany. They took time out of their vacation to learn from the master and brought their new craft home to Brooklyn. After many trials they managed to tame their wild American curds into a creamy and delectable cheese.

Betsy’s ricotta made a splash years ago at Brooklyn’s famed Smorgasburg market, where Martha Stewart dubbed it her “favorite ricotta in the whole world”. Betsy served it true rustic Italian fashion: on crusty bread with nothing but prosciutto and a drizzle of olive oil. Try with our Casella’s Prosciutto and see what the lines were all about!

Also Check out Salvatore’s Best Friends!

A New Saxelby Exclusive: Calderwood from Jasper Hill Farm!!

Calderwood

After a lengthy R&D process, we’re proud to premier our latest Saxelby exclusive!!!

Calderwood begins as a wheel of Alpha Tolman, Jasper Hill’s delicious alpine-style cheese, which spends several months of its aging process coated in hay from lush Vermont pastures located right on the farm.

The hay used to make Calderwood is harvested from pastures surrounding Jasper Hill Farm and dried in a special hay drying machine. The Calderwood Cropping Center, the first machine of its kind in the United States, can dry hay in a matter of a few hours, where it would take 3-4 days to dry in a sunny field. Jasper Hill Farm’s founders, Andy and Mateo Kehler, observed a hay dryer in action in Parma Italy, a region whose cheese calls for grass-fed milk, but whose climate is a bit too rainy for making consistent dry hay, and were inspired to bring the Italian technology stateside. The Cropping Center allows them to make high quality dry hay for feed that lasts the whole year, which is paramount to their quality standards as cheesemakers. Many of Jasper Hill’s award-winning cheeses are crafted from raw milk. Good quality hay is a key ingredient in the cheesemaking process, ensuring the microbiology of the cows’ digestive systems and the milk itself is at an optimal place for cheesemaking.  

Read about Calderwood in the New York Times! >>

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Above: Calderwood Cropping Center

Bred for Deliciousness! Sample Five Cheeses From Five Different Dairy Cow Breeds!

CowBreedsWhen we picture a dairy farm, most of us (Americans anyways) picture the iconic red barn-silo duo and black and white spotted cows happily chewing their cud in the midst of bucolic pastures. What most of us don’t realize is that there are hundreds of breeds of dairy cows in the world, all hailing from different places, and bred for specific purposes. And does the breed of the cow influence the flavor of the cheese, you ask? Heck yes!! The breed of cow (in concert with how they are raised and what they are fed) has an indelible impression on the finished cheese – from flavor to texture, and even (yes) the color!

Read on to learn more about the rare and diverse breeds of cows favored by our farmers, and treat yourself to a taste of cheese from five different breeds with our ‘Cow Breed Quintet’

mollycaitJERSEY
Spring Brook Tarentaise

Jersey cows, long prized for their capacity to produce milk chock full of butterfat, originally hail from the Isle of Jersey in the English Channel just off the coast of France. Characterized by their caramel color, sweet dispositions, and toupee-like hairdos, these cows produce more milk per pound of their own body weight than any other! They are also terrific grazers, thriving in the intensive grazing programs that many of our cheesemakers employ. The color of their milk is astonishingly yellow – this color comes from the carotenes in the grass they eat, making the old adage ‘you are what you eat’ totally apparent – and true! Spring Brook Farm has one of the country’s top herds of registered Jersey cows, and their Tarentaise shows off just how special the milk is.

unnamedDUTCH BELTED
Weybridge

Dutch Belted cows are like the Oreo cookies of the cow world – their glistening black coats boast a broad white stripe encircling their ample bellies – in fact, they might be more aptly called Dutch Cumberbunded. The first Dutch Belted cows were brought to the United States in 1838, and were quickly adopted by circus magnate PT Barnum who featured these rare and beautiful cows in his traveling shows. The Dutch Belted cow nearly became extinct in the 1970’s, but thanks to a handful of stalwart farmers and breeders, the breed is back in business! Patty and Roger Scholten of Scholten Farm in Vermont chose the Dutch Belted breed because ‘they look great’ (Patty’s quote – our cheesemakers are aesthetically-minded too!), produce milk with good butterfat, and their legs and hooves are well suited to being out on pasture. Weybridge, the diminutive disc of soft cheese made from their milk actually tastes a bit like a cow pie! (And we mean that in the most complimentary way!)

Marieke Gouda Cows EatingBROWN SWISS
Shelburne Cheddar

The Brown Swiss cow is one of the oldest dairying breeds in the world (some historians claim they date back to 4,000 BC!) and originally hail from the mountains and valleys of Switzerland. Brown Swiss cows are large in stature but sweet in temperament, making them ideal cows for milking. In fact, the folks at Shelburne Farms say that they can shave about a quarter of the time it would normally take to milk a herd of their size off just due to the fact that the cows are so darn cooperative. The Brown Swiss breed is known for being hardy, able to produce great quality milk from a diverse source of forage (the pastures of the Champlain Valley are a piece of cake to graze compared to the Swiss Alps!), as well as for their longevity. The registered herd at Shelburne Farms now numbers 120, and was started by Derick Webb in the 1950’s.

jasper hill Cows1_DennisCurranSMAYRSHIRE
Bayley Hazen Blue

The Ayrshire cow is a Scottish breed known for its red and white spotted coat and also for the unique fat composition of its milk. While most dairy cows produce milk with large globules of fat (making it easy to skim off cream and make butter) the Ayrshire cow’s milk is almost naturally homogenized, meaning that the fat globules are smaller and the milk does not separate quite so easily into cream and skim. To call the Ayrshire tough and sturdy would be an understatement. In 1929 two Ayrshire cows were walked from the Breed headquarters in Brandon, Vermont to St Louis Missouri for an agricultural show. Not only did both cows survive the trip, they went on to have healthy calves and reach record milk production! Mateo and Andy Kehler of Jasper Hill Farm were drawn to the Ayrshire cow because of the smaller fat globules in their milk and their ability to hang even through the harshest of Vermont winters!

Rolf and Marieke with calfHOLSTIEN
Marieke Truffle Gouda

The Holstein cow is the quintessential black and white spotted dairy cow, but it wasn’t always so! The Holstein (or Holstein-Friesian if you want to be super nerdy about it) rose to prominence in America in the 20th century due to its ability (through lots of selective breeding) to produce literally TONS of milk. Holsteins are the preferred breed of cow for farmers producing fluid milk because they are paid by the pound. A Holstein cow can make upwards of 70 pounds of milk per day – That’s a whopping 8.5 gallons per cow!! The breed was originally developed in Holland, and as Rolf and Marieke Penterman are of Dutch descent (and now natives of Wisconsin – a land well known for its black and white cows) it only seemed right to have Holsteins on the farm!

Bone Char Pearl – Exclusive Limited Edition Cheese Release!

170527_BoneCharPearlSaxelby Cheesemongers is thrilled to announce the arrival of Bone Char Pearl – a brand new cheese that is the fruit of a collaboration between our friends at Blue Hill Stone Barns, Seal Cove Farm, and Crown Finish Caves! Bone Char Pearl is a mixed milk cheese (fifty percent cow and fifty percent goat) from Seal Cove Farm in Maine. The young cheeses are dusted with a fine coating of bone ash produced by Blue Hill at Stone Barns, and aged by the expert affineurs at Crown Finish Caves until they reach three weeks of age and are ripe and ready to eat! Bone Char Pearl is tangy, fudgy and distinctly earthy with a tannic and mineral finish imparted by the bone ash.

Bone Char Pearl will be released in limited edition micro-batches – Be sure to get yours today!

Saxelby Cheesemongers is thrilled to announce the arrival of Bone Char Pearl – a brand new cheese that is the fruit of a collaboration between our friends at Blue Hill Stone Barns, Seal Cove Farm, and Crown Finish Caves! Prior to this launch, the only way to savor this cheese was to dine at Stone Barns and hope that it made its way into your tasting menu rotation of farm-fresh delights. Now for the first time ever, you can purchase this cheese directly from Saxelby Cheesemongers and enjoy it in your own home!

Bone Char Pearl is a mixed milk cheese (fifty percent cow and fifty percent goat) that is made at by Barbara Brooks at Seal Cove Farm in Maine. The young buttons of cheese are dusted with a fine coating of bone ash produced by Blue Hill at Stone Barns, and aged by the expert affineurs at Crown Finish Caves until they reach three weeks of age and are ripe and ready to eat! Bone Char Pearl is tangy, fudgy and distinctly earthy with a tannic and mineral finish imparted by the bone ash.

Bone Char Pearl is a cheese conceived by chef Dan Barber and his team up at Blue Hill Stone Barns as a part of their crusade to cook the most delicious food imaginable using the most sustainable means of farming, production, and harvest possible. One of their imperatives is to not waste anything that comes out of their kitchen – vegetable scraps are thrown into a compost pile that in turn sous-vide cooks signature dishes, bones left over from stock-making are carbonized in a special high-heat, low-oxygen environment and then used as charcoal that imparts a smokier, fattier, gamier flavor to anything cooked on the grill.

Chef Barber wanted to see if the ash from the ground up bone charcoal could be applied to the surface of the cheese, like the famed ashed goat cheeses of the Loire Valley, and if so, what flavors would it impart? Enter Saxelby Cheesemongers, Seal Cove, and Crown Finish Caves. Saxelby Cheesemongers is Blue Hill’s trusted partner in crime when it comes to their cheese selection. We tested out a few different cheeses for this project, and landed on the Pearl because of it’s crisp, tart-yet-buttery, and slightly yeasty flavor profile.

Crown Finish Caves completes the final, and most crucial part of the puzzle for this fabulously unique cheese. Their temperature and humidity controlled caves – old lagering tunnels located deep beneath the streets of Brooklyn – provide the ideal environment for these little cheeses to mature and develop flavor. The Pearls arrive at Crown Finish Caves when they are one week old – fresh, young, and rindless. The cheeses are then dried in a special ‘sechoir’ or drying fridge, to prime the surface of the cheese to grow the right kind of rind. The cheeses are then dusted with the bone ash and moved into the caves to grow their supple bloomy rinds.

The finished product is a thing of beauty – both in looks and flavor! Bone Char Pearl is one of the tastiest morsels of culinary innovation we’ve ever laid our hands on, and we can’t wait for you to try one for yourself!

Shop Bone Char Pearl Now!

A Stinky Exclusive: Jasper Hill Farm + Transmitter Brewing + Saxelby Cheese

Plus a Slew of Special Events! Pie & Cheese Social / Beer & Cheese Pairings

transmitterwilloughby01It all started last holiday season when we got a special delivery of limited edition Willoughby, a pungent round of cows’ milk cheese from Jasper Hill Farm washed with beer from the Alchemist, one of Vermont’s best craft brewers. That got our imaginations brewing (pun definitely intended… we can’t help it!) about what great NYC-based breweries we could work with to create our own beer-washed cheese. Enter Anthony Accardi and Rob Kolb of Transmitter Brewing, a brewery that’s small in stature but looms large in flavor, located under the Pulaski bridge on the border of Long Island City and Greenpoint.

Transmitter focuses on saison-style beer, a funky and delicious genre that lends itself handily to the task of washing cheese. After tasting through many of their delicious offerings, we settled on their H1 Zinfandel Saison – a cherry-hued beer that is aged in wine barrels and then re-fermented with Zinfandel grapes to produce a fruity-heavy and slightly sour flavor profile.

The wheels of Willoughby have been washed with the beer twice weekly for about six weeks now, and are ripe and ready to go! Snag one for yourself while the snagging’s good, and add some pungent, gooey, cheesy fare to your table this holiday season!

Join Saxelby Cheesemongers for Some Fantastically Flavorful Events!

‘Meet the Maker’ at As Is NYC

Wednesday November 9th | 6-8pm

Saxelby Cheesemongers & Transmitter Brewing serve up pairings of Transmitter Willoughby with H1 Zinfandel Saison

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Pie and Cheese Social at Essex Street Market

Saturday November 12th | seatings at 1pm and 2:30pm

Sample three perfect pairings of pie and cheese from Saxelby Cheesemongers & Peetee’s Pies

Event Info

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‘Meet the Maker’ at 61 Local

Tuesday November 15th 7-9pm

Saxelby Cheesemongers and Transmitter Brewing serve up pairings of Transmitter Willoughby with H1 Zinfandel Saison along with house made accompaniments

Event Info

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Essex Market History in a Nutshell

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Essex Market 1818-2018

We’re about to celebrate Essex Market’s 76th birthday with a blowout block party bash (Save the date! May 21st is fast approaching!) but this week’s post is here to tell you that Essex Market has been a Lower East Side institution for far longer than its 76 years in its current home.

Records of Essex Market date back to 1818, when food shopping in NYC was quite a different scene. Groceries did exist – but they were all located uptown, not downtown where most of the population was quite poor. There were ‘grog shops’ on the Lower East Side, but they were places where working men would go for provisions and a hard drink, so as one could imagine, the emphasis was not really on the food.

The Essex Market’s first home was actually in the center of Grand Street between Essex and Ludlow. Though no photographs of the early incarnations of the market exist, we can surmise that like other markets in the city, it was likely an outdoor covered shed, meant to give just enough shelter for vendors to sell their wares. It eventually moved to a proper brick building that is now the site of Seward Park High School. It’s also notable to say that back in that day, the market being run by the ‘city’ meant the market was actually run by Tammany Hall, and consequently home to much corruption.

Most of the residents of the Lower East Side in those days were poor immigrants, either single men working to earn a living and start a family, or families struggling to get by. Either way, in that era, it was the men who were supposed to do the provisioning for the family – and a good thing too because as mentioned before, a Tammany market hall was probably no place for most women to hang out. Suffice it to say that the market in those days was mostly full of butcher stalls – the majority of these working men wanted a grilled piece of meat and a drink, and that was that.

As the ranks of the Lower East Side swelled with the huge waves of immigrants arriving in the late 1800’s and 1900’s, merchants took to the streets and sold their wares from thousands upon thousands of pushcarts. The pushcarts were basically the city’s form of welfare at that time – not technically legal, but selling cheap food for the poor, and so the city turned a blind eye and did not get in the way. And the pushcarts did not only sell food – pretty much any kind of goods you could imagine could be bought at a pushcart.

The pushcarts also allowed for something not typically done at other types of markets – haggling. Back in the day, when an extra penny meant being able to buy some other crucial item for the family (milk for the baby, medicine, etc) haggling ruled the day. In those days most of the shoppers were women, and they were expert hagglers. Adam Steinberg, chief educator at the Lower East Side Tenement Museum, recalled the tale of an Italian-American woman living on Orchard Street who made it a point to be the first in line each morning at the pushcarts. Not only would she have the pick of the best merchandise, but the merchants – being superstitious – would do anything to get the first sale of the day, thereby affording her the best bargains.

As time went by, the pushcarts came to be seen as a blight on the city – a symbol of the squalor and poverty on the Lower East Side. They clogged the streets, were not properly regulated, and lacked basic sanitary measures to ensure the products that they sold were safe. The reformers, progressive people who wanted to assimilate the immigrants into American life and lift them out of poverty through government programs, settlement houses and the like, wanted the pushcarts abolished. By the 1920’s and 1930’s, the rise of the automobile gave the city one last bit of ammunition to get rid of them – the traffic in New York was abominable.

In 1939 Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia opened the Essex Market with what was called the shortest dedication ceremony of all time. Contrary to other public market dedications that were quite grand – the opening of the Fulton Fish Market was a stark contrast with banners and flags and speeches and public officials parading about – the market’s beginnings were humble. After all, it was the poor immigrants’ market, not a beacon of civic pride like the Fulton Fish Market.

Due to the building of the IRT line (now known as the F train) a number of buildings were demolished along Essex Street – leaving a long thin parcel of land on which to build Essex Market. The market was originally four buildings – One between Broome and Delancey – the future site of the Essex Market slated for completion in 2018, the current facility between Delancey and Rivington, as well as another two other buildings between Rivington and Stanton. The original market was home to 475 stalls selling everything from meat to fish to socks and undergarments.

Throughout the 1940’s the market prospered. There was even a weekly news show on NYC public radio hosted by Frances Foley Gannon and the NYC Department of Markets called ‘the market report’ to advise housewives on how to shop and cook thriftily in New York’s thriving public markets. There were kosher cooking classes and canning classes to encourage housewives to put up fresh fruits and vegetables during the second World War. But the rise of the supermarket combined with the economic woes of New York City in the 1960’s and 1970’s left the market in hard times.

Despite all the hardship, the market managed to weather the storm, always an anchor for Lower East Siders in search of affordable fresh food. In the 1990’s the market was taken over by the New York City Economic Development Corporation (NYCEDC) who continues to manage it today. In addition to Essex Market, there are three other LaGuardia-era public markets that have survived through the decades – Moore Street in Brooklyn, Arthur Avenue in the Bronx, and La Marqueta in Harlem. These public markets are true gems that hearken back to a different time and place in New York City, when markets were representative of civic pride, and seen as a necessary public service. They are also TRUE markets. In New York City today, when a new food hall seems to be popping up around every corner, these markets are the genuine article – fresh food sold by mom and pop businesses.

Now to Essex Market’s future – which also is intricately woven in it’s history. In 1967 in the name of urban renewal, swaths of tenement buildings were razed on the Lower East Side to build newer, affordable housing for New Yorkers. The scale of the neighborhood was forever changed – you can see the towers of large, blocky housing that was built stretching along the East River all the way from the border of Chinatown up to Stuyvesant Town on 14th Street.

The vacant lots on the south side of Delancey Street stretching from Essex all the way to Clinton Streets – the Essex Market’s future home – have been vacant since 1967 – deadlocked in a neighborhood battle over what should be built there. The residents were promised affordable housing, but many development proposals that came and went over the years were anything but.

In 2008 Mayor Bloomberg, eager to see this unused land turned into something more useful for the neighborhood, worked with Community Board 3 to pass a set of guidelines as to what the neighborhood wanted in a new development. Luckily for Essex Market, the neighborhood rallied behind it and demanded that a new home for the market be included in the new development. In 2012 an RFP was issued (city speak for requests for developers to submit proposals) and in 2013 Delancey Street Associates was awarded the contract to build Essex Crossing.

Which pretty much brings us up to the present day – the market is slated to move across the street in 2018 (to a former Essex Market building site – what goes around comes around!) to a new, state of the art facility almost twice the size of the current market. The current Essex Market building will continue to be open and serve New Yorkers until the new facility is completed. And when it’s time for the move, the plans call for it to take just a few days, so there will be virtually NO interruption in business for vendors.

For nearly 200 years, Essex Market has been a pillar of the Lower East Side’s economy and cuisine. We look forward to beginning the next hundred years of business in Essex Market’s new home!

This Week Only At Saxelby Cheese

Grey Lady Grilled Cheese Takeover!

This Week’s Special Sandwich – Tuesday 4/19 to Sunday 4/24
Smoked Bluefish Melt with Reading Raclette on Pain d’Avignon Pullman

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Contra Grilled Cheese Takeover! This Week Only at Saxelby Cheesemongers

Talk & Taste at ESM + SaxelThrees Beer & Cheese

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Chef Jeremiah Stone Presents Pickled Pineapple
and Nduja Spread with Ascutney Mountain

This week only – from Tuesday 4/5 to Sunday 4/10 – stop by Saxelby Cheesemongers for the grilled cheese experience of a lifetime!! Chef Jeremiah Stone of Contra and Wildair has crafted a tart, spicy and savory sandwich filled with pickled pineapples, spicy nduja, and robust Ascutney Mountain cheese! Trust us – it’s worth the trip.

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In Honor of Grilled Cheese Month Saxelby Cheesemongers has joined forces with some of our favorite chefs at Contra, Ruffian, The Grey Lady, and Clocktower restaurants to feature a different special grilled cheese sandwich each week. Be sure to pick up your Grilled Cheese Marathon Card for this butterfat-filled celebration – when you buy 5 sandwiches, the 6th is on us!

April Grilled Cheese Calendar

April 12-17
Ruffian / Chef Andy Alexandre
Cabot Clothbound Cheddar with Tomato Chutney & Spiced Yogurt
on Pain D’Avignon Pullman

April 19-24
Grey Lady / Chef Gavin McLaughlin
Reading Raclette with Smoked Bluefish Spread
on Pain D’Avignon Pullman

April 26-30
Clocktower / Chef Brian Yurko
Shelburne Cheddar on Tomato Brioche

April Happenings!

SaxelThrees Beer & Cheese
At Threes Brewing

Thursday 4/21 – 6:30-8pm
For tickets ($40) click here

Join Saxelby Cheesemongers for a pairing extravaganza featuring four mouthwatering cheeses and four expertly brewed craft beers. A Sunday evening munching and sipping in the backyard at Threes?! Yes please!

Talk & Taste – Pickles & Pastries
At Essex Street Market

Thursday 4/14 – 6:30-8pm

Join us for the first installment of Talk & Taste — a series of free talks at Essex Street Market, where we invite you to join us after regular Market hours to learn — and, of course, sample food — from Essex Street Market vendors. Tickets are free but RSVP is required.

Pickles & Pastries: The Evolution of NYC’s Public Markets

Market purveyors of yore would likely not even recognize today’s glitzy food halls and “lifestyle markets.” Yet institutions like Essex Street Market have bridged the gap between history’s street peddlers and modern-day food vendors. Who ultimately determines such markets’ future and why should we care if they disappear forever?

New Amsterdam Market founder Robert LaValva shares his expertise on the past, present, and future of public markets in a dialogue with Anne Saxelby, owner of Saxelby Cheesemongers.